This is a salad for a day when you need nourishing, but you also need a bit of heft. The chickpeas lend the dish a reassuring, creamy, nutty weight, while the carrots offer crunch and sweetness. The earthiness of the spice is balanced by the zing of fresh citrus and mustard and, over it all, a sprinkle of grassy parsley; a delightful colour contrast, as much as a flavour complement.

You can eat this on its own (and I have), but it’s lovely as part of a mezze spread. Or on the side of some grilled aubergine with a dollop of hummus for good measure.

The below recipe uses canned chickpeas for speed and convenience, but dried chickpeas beat it for taste and texture by a mile. If you’ve got the time, soak 100g dried chickpeas overnight in plenty of water with a large pinch of salt. The next day, drain them and put them in an oven-safe pot with a lid (a cast iron casserole, for example), cover with plenty of water, a teaspoon of salt, and any aromatics you fancy chucking in (half an onion, a few sprigs of thyme or parsley, the odd garlic clove – whatever you have lying around will do). Put the pot, with the lid on, in a low oven, around 160°C, and cook for 90 minutes to 2 hours. The exact cooking time will depend on the age of your chickpeas so start checking after an hour has passed. You want to take them out of the oven when they’re tender. While you don’t need the cooking liquid for this recipe, hang onto it – it makes a great flavour base for a soup (just use it as you would stock). Drain the chickpeas and use as instructed below.

spiced carrot and chickpea salad
Serves four, happily

Salad
400g can of chickpeas, drained and rinsed
250g carrots, peeled and grated
Flat leaf parsley, chopped

Dressing
1.5 tbsp fresh orange juice (e.g. ½ orange)
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice (e.g. ½ lemon)
½ tsp Dijon mustard
Large pinch each of ground cumin, ground coriander, and fine salt
2 ½ tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Make the dressing in the base of your salad bowl. Add the fresh juices, the mustard, and the spice and whisk it all together. Drizzle in the extra virgin olive oil and whisk again until a smooth, creamy sauce emerges. Alternatively, put all the dressing ingredients in a clean jar and shake it all into submission.

Add the carrot and chickpeas to the bowl and gently toss to combine. Have a bite (go on…) and adjust the salad to your taste. It might need a pinch more salt, or maybe the lift of another squeeze of lemon. Tailor it to suit you.

Garnish with the freshly chopped parsley and serve.